Monday, July 21, 2008

Bangalore – Pune - Mumbai in Train

Prachi and I took the Udhyan Express from Bangalore to Mumbai at 8:10 PM at Bangalore Central. The next morning when we got up, we were in Andhra Pradesh. Little later we were in Karnataka, then again AP and from Solapur we were into Shivaji Maharaj’s bastion – Maharastra. But all through the day, the sights were too harsh for my eyes and in turn, my mind. I mean, there was no greenery, dry stretches of uncultivable lands, few patches of cultivable but non cultivated black soils and not even dry shrubs with few green leaves. The entire route had very few towns and the places which I felt can be called as towns had very few concrete storied buildings and very little development in terms of the nomenclature. The only exception was, Solapur. I doubt if it is due to nature of the land and natural resource. My doubt was affirmed by “Kendriya Vidhyalaya” at Solapur. This school just adjacent to the railway track had a decent garden, totally green. I see two ways of interpreting this. Either the farmers are not as resourceful and financially strong as the school management to cultivate in this land or the land is actually not fertile, but the school managed to replace a part of it for the purpose of garden. The OR part of the above statement is not feasible to be done at a large scale for cultivation. There are various ways of countering the first issue, which I assume that the government and NGOs in this region are working at.

In addition to this unpleasant reality, the train did not have pantry car, which otherwise would have been a source to pass time. The lunch had to be ordered from outside. Order for lunch is taken after Solapur and a mediocre meal is served at Khurdwadi at a cost of Rs. 32. After lunch we had a small nap in railway language which lasted for 2 hours. Very tasty and large groundnuts waked me up at Pune station.

From Pune, unexpectedly our journey doubled to be a picnic in the ghats. This was the first time we were traveling in this region in day light. It was a pleasant, enjoyable evening. The entire region was green. It did not just have plants and trees, but there was a green coating spread over the entire land contributed by the grass that were sprout due to monsoonal showers. There were a few hillocks at the periphery of the city, which can serve as nice places for amateur trekking. The sun was just setting, while the shower commenced. It turned out to be a real jaunt for us with my mobile camera becoming operational, not knowing that this was just a preview of the full length movie that had to come further down the track.

The real movie was screened as we entered the ghat regions of Lonavala. My god! I swear I had never been on such a rail trip. It was ‘All ideal’ trip that I had made so far in my life – Right place at right time of the day at right season. Is this what Robert Schuler claims – Right people meet right things at right time. As the ghat section started, there were big, green-clad mountains on one side and valley on the other. The mountain rock and springs running down the valley were at touchable distance from the train, demanding my mobile to be taken out quite often. A beautiful arch of seven colors intruded into the serenity of the mountains. At a few places, these mountains were crowned with elegant bungalows and guest houses. Added to the grandeur were young kids returning from their schools with parents and in groups at various locations down the slope and waiting for the train. One more attraction on this route was numerous tunnels along the route from Lonavala to Mumbai. All this charm lasted till we entered the periphery of Mumbai, from where we could easily infer the density of population, shabbiness and fast pace unique to Mumbai.

Thank God! We were made to travel in sleeper class, which assisted us in getting close to nature and capture it in my mobile. Actually I had an III AC ticket booked in Ajmer Express, which would have taken me to this region around late evening. This ticket was in Pooled Quota Waiting List. Till the date of travel it was not confirmed, due to which we were compelled to travel with the alternate tickets which we had booked in Udhyan express. Though we were cursing earlier, we were able to appreciate the implication of the whole episode only after we crossed Pune.

Thursday, May 01, 2008

Trip to Bhavani, Pariyur and Kodiveri

Erode

This time it was a different and little more versatile group. I along with Prachi and my friends had been to Erode for spending the weekend and also for my friends to visit our newly built house. We reached Erode on Saturday noon. We had a real Tamil tasting lunch prepared by my mom, which is quite different from the ones available in Bangalore restaurants. Everyone had a small nap before going on a shopping spree in the evening. Jayakumar was excited to find very cheap textile items which are required for their newly built house at Chemmanvizhai, a beautiful, picturesque and green village near Nagercoil. Manikandan could not enjoy the shopping in its entirety, as he had to resolve some official problem at his workplace through phone all the evening. While shopping, we had an opportunity to come 2 temple car processions, which are hardly seen in a city like Bangalore. Our day ended with a spicy and delicious dinner at Uma mess. Uma mess is a small eat out place which I had frequently visited with my school friends. Now I visited with other friends after almost 11 years. The place had changed. It was made little big. Other than that everything was same – the taste, the people (Sudhakar, Prabhu and his father). We had Parotta, Muttai Veechu, Sada Veechu, Dosai, Omlet, Nattu Kozhli fry. Then we walked some 2 km to reach my house, before gulping few glasses of butter milk and going to bed.

Next morning, we three along with Hema, played Badminton for quite some time in the open space in front of my house. Not to say, we were drenched with sweat. Then we got ready for a day’s trip which had planned the earlier evening. We had a very delicious breakfast with Idiyappam and Dosai, which I ate like my only meal of the day.

Bhavani
After the breakfast, my friends Jayakumar, Manikandan, my sister Hema, Prachi and I set out in our Bolero to Bhavani. We reached Bhavani with in 30 minutes of our departure. This is called a sangam in this region, which is actually a Triveni Sangam. This place is a confluence of River Kaveri and River Bhavani. It is also believed that another divine river, which I remember as Amutha merges from below the ground. Unexpected to the size of the town, the parking fee was Rs.30. River Kaveri, where people normally take the holy dip had very less water compared to Bhavani. We did not take bath considering the quality of water and the time constraint. But we immersed our feet and sprinkled some water on our head. The temple seems to have been renovated recently, as it displayed clean walls, pillars and statues. It was quite crowded near the garba griha. Jay, Saks (that’s how Manikandan is called) and I decided to stand in the queue for darshan, while Prachi and Hema decided to wait outside. After we three had worshipped, we were on the way to our car, while we saw a temple elephant. It was not tied to anything. It was totally free, with a mahout sitting nearby. Prachi wanted to get blessed by an elephant, which she never had experienced in her life. But she had to build up her courage by seeing some small kids doing it, before getting blessed.

Pariyur
From Bhavani, we set off to Pariyur a small village 4 km away from Gobichettipalayam. This region along with Pollachi and its surroundings are very famous in Tamil film industry, due to their greenery and vast stretches of agricultural fields with canals. It took us less than an hour to reach this place. There are 2 temples at this place. Usually they are closed from 12 noon to 4 PM. We reached at 11:45. We had to cross a stretch of tarred road, bare footed, from parking to the entrance of the temple, which was heated by the midday sun. Prachi struggled as she was not experienced with such heroics earlier. Though the village was not as green as it used to be in other seasons, the canal at the back of the temple was full with water. We inquired a person there, whether we can bath there. He said in affirmative. He also said that the water was recently released from dam and hence has foul odor and snakes. We had also witnessed 3 snakes in a short time. Hence we decided not to bath here. Inside the temple, in front of the deity there was a lengthy pit, used for “Thee Midhithal”. This is a ritual or a ceremony during festival times in this part of the region, where the devotees run on lighter coal. I explained to Prachi about this ritual, which she could not believe.

After buying some prashad, we visited the other temple just in the vicinity of the first temple. This temple is totally made of white marbles. We relaxed in the courtyard of this temple for a while. We purchased some raw mangoes from an old lady, who had made a small table her shop below a shady tree. We had a few of them and packed some to bring home.

Kodiveri
From Pariyur we set off to Kodiveri, through Gobi (as Gobichettipalayam is shortly called). We munched some parotta, tomato rice, and tasty curd rice as lunch at Gobi. Kodiveri is around 10 km from Gobi. Kodiveri is a check dam built on River Bhavani. Sun was scorching when we reached this place. The first thing we did was to hire a traditional boat called Parisal, made of thatched bamboo coated with tar. They charged Rs.20 per head for a trip in the embankment area. Everyone, except Jay was afraid to some extent, as we don’t know swimming. A very old man with estimated age of 65+ was guiding the boat. Saks was asking all sorts of questions like are there crocodiles in the water, what will happen if the oar falls into water and so. Except for the weather it was so enjoyable. During the final leg of the trip, the old man took us near the place from where the water falls down. Oh god! That was so fearful, except for Jai. Hema even was getting ready to jump out of the boat, keeping her bags down, in case the boat is going to fall down J

Then we went down the fall, to take bath. Hema did not bring clothes thinking that there would not be place to change over. But she was tempted to bath after seeing the place. Fortunate enough were we, that there was a ladies toilet which was dually used for dressing too. After some confusion Hema and Prachi decided to take bath and changed their dress, while we did it in open. First, Hema and Prachi took bath, while we watched over to the things standing in the hot sun. The only bad experience of the trip was to stand in the hot sun. There were no trees or shades near the bathing place. It would be suggestible to take umbrella in summer. Jai, I pity you because of the condition of your hair (I doubt, do you have it). After Hema and Prachi came out, rather made to come out, we enjoyed getting into deep. I would not have dared to go there if Jai was not there. It had right amount of water. Earlier when I had been, it used to have large amount of water and it used to be fierce. Now, though it was fierce, it was limited. It had massaged our back, free of charge. The other major problem earlier was it was very slippery, due to which many people had been engulfed by the river. Now they had provided metal rods for assistance. It was a memorable moment. Later, we gave the girls some more time to bath again in the shallow waters.

On the way back, we ate all country stuffs, which recalled our childhood like Fresh palm (Nongu), maize (Solla karuthu), Green Pea masala (Pattani) and Coconut palm (Ilani). When everyone enjoyed with all this, Jai was deprived of fish, the specialty at Kodiveri, due to lack of company. To prevent boredom on the way back, we were playing dumb charads, while Jai was feeling very shy to act.

To Bangalore
After returning, Jai and Saks again started playing badminton, I while was not ready to get more tired. We had a solid dinner (as it is called colloquially, which means heavy) of Karadosai and Thengai Chuttney. Jai and I swallowed 7 of those, later filled our stomach with some more buttermilk. Saks seems to have been concerned about his behavior restricting to a little food every time. Everyone was sleepy even before boarding the bus to Bangalore. Departing at 11 in the night, we reached Bangalore at 6 in the morning.

All through the trip, I observed Jai as a father figure buying things for others, taking care of others and so. He purchased ice cream for Saks to eat, Corn for Hema and Nongu for me and himself. Hope he becomes a father soon.

Tips:

Erode to Gobi – 35 KM

Gobi to Kodiveri – 11 KM

Erode to Bhavani ~ 20KM

Umbrella – a must at Kodiveri

Gobi – last place to find decent restaurants or Hotels.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Trip to Nandi Hills

Prachi wanted to take a break from her hectic official travel and visit a hill station near Bangalore. We were planning to visit Hill stations in the western ghats like coorg and Kemmanagundi. We had also planned for a trip to Udupi, Malpe, St. Marys Island, Bekkal fort and Kemmanagundi, with the help of one of my colleagues Manjunath, who is from this region of Karnataka. For different reasons we had to give up that trip, some being the weather was not enjoyable which I heard from my friend Manikandan who visited Coorg last week, and it was becoming a 3 day trip. As this trip had to be given up, Prachi was interested and insisting to go to Nandi hills, as she was in vacation last week. Due to my neck pain, the only possibility to go there was with a tour operator, which I was not interested as I wanted to drive. I had to convince her to postpone the plan. It worked out this week.
Prachi and I, set out yesterday morning, well before dawn at 4:30 AM, with a plan to see the sun rising from the mountain tops. I prepared the routes to reach Mekri circle, with the help of Sudeep the previous night. The route from Hebbal to Nandi hills were available in wikitravel. It was a very cold morning of a hot summer day. We were right on track, as Sudeep suggested till we reached the underpass at Frazer town. From here we had to take Nandidurg road. But we were stranded and roaming around various roads at Frazer town, with a hope of reaching Mekri circle somehow. To my surprise there were a lot of people in that area considering the time of the day. One gentleman guided us properly to reach Mekri circle. After having lost some 20 precious minutes (It was precious for some reasons that would come later), we were again on track.
It was a straight highway from Mekri circle. The only traffic consisted of trucks. It was very hard to drive with our dim headlight. Till some distance from Hebbal, the road construction was going on at few places. From Yelahanka, the six lane road was straight with no traffic. We were missing our Yamaha libero with which biked to Pondicherry from Chennai, a 160 Km stretch along the coastline. Though we wanted to go fast, our kinetic was not made for racing. So, we had to stick to 50Km/hr limit. After the air force base station, it was little misty and chill. I could feel that Prachi was shivering in cold, but would not dare to say that, as she refused to take her jacket even after my request. I offered my jacket which she refused, saying it was not that cold. But she revealed the truth after we reached the hill top and said that she was praying God to bring the sun earlier, hahaha.
On the way there were a lot of industries along this route. We also had a chance to see the pathetically bifurcating road, rather a metal road that would take to Bangalore International Airport. There were construction of huge flyovers, which I assume would be the feed for BIAL. But as of now, I wondered how could they claim that it was ready to use and was supposed to start its operation from 1st of this month. Thank God, the central government committee which inspected it had postponed the inauguration.
As we proceeded, we took a break near a Jain temple on a little hillock on the highway and took some snaps. From here on I told Prachi to look for a advertisement board for the Mount view resort, where we had to turn left, as instructed by Wiki. Just few hundred meters from this Jain temple, there was a road to our left with few advertisement boards. As we were just missing that road and proceeded on the highway, Prachi noticed that Mount view resorts board, which was hided by other boards and totally colorless to catch the attention. I would say we were fortunate. We took that turn. Now we were very close to Nandi hills. But it was getting bright too, indicating that we had to race with the sun to see him rise from the mountain. While on the way, unfortunately he won the race and showed his amber face from in between the rocky mountains. Though we lost, it was a beautiful sight, which we halted to capture in our cameras. This road too, was very good. I loved driving so far.
There were 2 roads which we can take, where this road ended. There was a direction board in Kannada, which we could not read. We took the right one, which seemed to used more. After 5 or 6 Km, we realized that we were descending the hill. We stopped to inquire the route with an old lady. She could not speak any other language than Kannada. I could not make her understand what we wanted. From her actions, I understood that we were on a wrong route. We turned back and while on the way, we inquired a milk man and again with a young man waiting in front of a tea shop. They guided us properly, that we should have taken to road towards the left at the junction. Just as we entered the road from the junction, there was this resort, not so big. We continued our way in between the eucalyptus farms to reach the diversion marked by a Nandi, from where the mountain route starts. It was a 8 Km stretch. It was not a treacherous route, as found in the ghats. Just before reaching the top, there are a few bends, otherwise a very simple route. But the sun was beaming into my eyes, making it difficult to drive.
A fort entrance welcomed us, indicating that we had reached the top, though not the peak. It was 4850 feet above sea level. We parked our bike there, got tickets and were wondering how to proceed. It was an open area with few monkeys, shops, but not sign boards. As it was early, there were no people from whom we can infer the direction to move ahead. We just climbed the stairs in front and entered a gate in front. It was a Harry Potter experience. There lied a whole new world full of greenery, big trees, hill style tiled house. We started moving around, taking snaps, after which we came to know that the entire region is kind of a fort and the visitors have total freedom to move around. Prachi was so excited, jumping and singing, becoming a kid. There was an amazingly clear tank called Amruta Sarovar. Just a few distance from this tank was a map of this region, which we glanced for a while and started to walk towards Tipu's fall. This is claimed to be a place where Tipu used to execute his criminals. On way to this rock dropping into a steep cliff, there were large stretches of grass, which we used for some of our photo session. We sat at the edge of the cliff for a while, planning to have some snacks, which did not materialize due to the dogs that were encircling us.
Then we moved in the direction of the temple at the peak. We had a few snaps of the temple, though we did not get inside, as I assumed that there would not be any architectural significance. By now, Prachi's Gujju character, which I relate to 'food-o-philia', manifested itself. Complementing her character was the restaurant at the top called "Hotel Ranjita". It served bread-omelet, bread butter toast, maggi noodles and cup noodles. I had bread omelet, she had a toast and then we shared a plate of noodles. There was another restaurant with bar, which seemed better but not open at that time. We continued our strolling, after sipping (I mean it) a tender coconut. There was a little girl named Pavitra who was taking charge of a shop selling, tender coconut and cucumbers. After ordering for 2 tender coconuts, I asked if she could open the coconut with the machete she was having. With a smile, she continued. It was actually tough for her. I went ahead to help her, which she rejected. But at the end I had to get my hands dirty. The hole for the straw was not enough big, so we had use all our energy to drink. While we were drinking, she was using the catapult to threaten the monkeys. All the shop keepers had catapult to get rid of the monkeys.
We also had a chance to visit a beautiful guest house called " Gandhi Nilaya". We entered this prohibited V.I.P guest house, thinking that it was an ashram. Then the guy named Muniraju who was taking care, welcomed us inside to have a look and said that it was under maintenance. It was so lavish inside. To stay here permission from vidhan soudha is required. There was a very well maintained Garden inside the campus, from where the villages at the foot hills where clearly visible. Thanking him by taking a snap of him, for which he posed religiously we were on our way again. We sat on one of the many benches found across the entire region and relaxed. I would say Prachi really relaxed by singing her currently favorite song, "Tujhe dekh dekh sona" repetitively, which I had to bare. Then we climbed a few steps to have a look of another guest house called "Nehru Nilaya", which was still more magnificent from outside than the previous one. It had some very rare, unseen and beautiful flowers in its surrounding.
From here, we descended the hill towards the entrance of the forts. We took a small hilly route in between the trees to substitute the pleasure of trekking. The entire route had a small coin like structure, scattered all over. Another leach like structure lying around. Later we came to know that this leach like structure encloses numerous of those coin like seeds. Then we came across a small natural tank besides a rock, covered by thick shade of the trees. This scenery evoked the interest of video shooting in me, which was probably due to influence of watching the National Geographic and The Discovery Channel. After taking a small video, which eventually came good with sounds of birds and insects, we went to visit the Tipu's Palace. This was not palatial as the name suggests. It was a small house where Tipu had stayed during his visits.
We ended our journey into this fortified kingdom, came out to the reality, which welcome us with the arrival of a BMTC bus with loads of people. We had some bottled drink and started our journey down hill, while we noticed that we were running out of petrol. Though I know it was risky, I switched of the ignition of the bike and started to descend. On the way we bought some grapes, which seems to be the specialty of the region, from one of the many sellers who are periodically placed on the sides of the road. When we reached the highway, we were little hopeful that we would have enough petrol to reach the nearby petrol station. We were wrong at our guess. The bike started choking when I slowed down at a speed breaking. I made it run till it can. Finally when it stopped, I could see a HP board at a distance. I made the choke on, so that it could run a little more distance. We were really fortunate to find a Petrol station, which was a desperate need of the hour. Then we continued our journey happily till Yelahanka, from where another misery struck us, which we are used to, "Traffic Jam". We had our lunch at Hotel Ramanas in Cunningham Road, then proceeded home. It took us 1.5 hour to reach Bangalore from Nandi hills, while it took more than an hour to reach our home from Cunningham road.
It was a very nice trip. At the end of the day we had covered 190 Km, on our little kinetic. Cheers!!!

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Trip to Madurai - Rameshwaram - Kanyakumari

BangaloreMadurai:
My in-laws, my wife Prachi and I went for a pilgrimage, but not in its real sense, during this Christmas vacation. Our bus to Madurai was at 10.00 P.M. As always, being afraid of the Bangalore traffic, we reached Majestic, the bus station of Bangalore before an hour. There was little crowd compared to long weekends that I had seen earlier. Thanks to ‘id’ that fell a day earlier. My mother-in-law was shuttling along the platform to get some relief from her leg pain; my father-in-law was anxiously waiting for the bus, while Prachi and I were observing the crowd and chatting on undefined topics. “Airavat”, the KSRTC (Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation) bus in which we had to travel arrived at right time, but departed 15 minutes late, which is not considered late in Indian context. Three of us sat together in the last seat, leaving my father-in-law, two or three seats ahead. We were provided with a bottle of water and blanket. After 6 hours of travel, as well as sleep, bus halted for a short time, waking us up. Looking at the watch I assumed that we had reached Karur. But getting down I realized we had just reached Salem, some 2 hours short of Karur. I woke up at 6 A.M only to understand that we are so late by then. We were just traveling from Karur to Dindigul. As the day broke, I found that the road was under construction and only one side of it was being used, which required lot of maneuvering from the driver, and ultimately making our destination look far away than it was. The route of the entire trip provided opportunity to the driver to enhance their maneuvering skills. We reached Madurai at 10 A.M. Thanks to the nature. I wake up everyday only with nature’s call. It would have been so difficult, had nature called today. But, Prachi was in trouble to reach the hotel soon, hahaha. Contrary to our plan of taking a taxi to the hotel room, we took an auto-rickshaw as it was immediately available at no cheating (added bonus in unknown cities of Tamilnadu, where meter is not a norm). We reached “Madurai Residency” at 10.30 A.M. It looked decent from outside and at the reception. But the rooms were normal compared to the other rooms that we had stayed during the trip at lesser cost than this. After refreshing, we booked for a cab at the travel desk for our further travel and had our lunch. When it comes to dinning table, Prachi becomes a total south Indian. She had no problem eating total south Indian meal, even without a single roti, while her parents were having a hard time, all through the trip. During lunch we met my colleage Bhupesh and his wife, who was in the same hotel as part of their tour. They had already visite Rameshwaram the previous day. They had a similar agenda as ours, except that they planned to spend a day at Trivandrum.

Madurai:
After filling our stomach and relaxing for sometime, we set off for Madurai sight seeing. I doubt whether it can be called ‘sight seeing’, as it included only Thriumalai Nayakar Mahal and Meenakshi Amman temple. We avoided visit to Thirupparangkundram temple to save time. Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal was under renovation. This is not very old piece of work considering Indian history. Currently it is open all through the day without any break due to renovation work. The entrance fee per person is Rs.10 and additional fee for cameras as every other place. It is not a mahal as the name claims. It is a big arena surrounded by pillared pathways, beautiful arches and decorative roof. It borrows the style from Europe. This seems to be the hang-out place for the boys and girls of this area, more than a tourist place. The musical light show has been temporarily suspended due to the renovation work. It did not take more than half an hour to completely walk around this place. In added information on this place - This is place where the first song "Kehna hi kya" in hindi version or "Kannalane" in tamil version of the film "Bombay" was shot. After a little temptation of shopping handloom sarees, we boarded the taxi to reach Meenakshi Amman temple.

Normally, any temple in Tamilnadu is closed between 12 noon to 4 PM, offering the deity some time to nap. We entered the temple through the West entrance. This temple was also under renovation. As we passed through the security check, I observed a unique thing, which I had never seen earlier. During the security check, all tobacco stuff like gutkha were detached from their proud owners and collected at the gate, snatching any chance for these painters to show their modern ‘spit-art’ around the corners. As some more time was left for the temple opening, we went around the temple seeing the fenced music stones (which I had listened a long time back when I visited the temple with my father as a young kid), thousand pillar hall, museum and the black dhoti crowd (Sabarimala devotees). Museum was not lit properly, though it had very good collection of sculptures and paintings. If the thousand pillar hall was vacant it would have been magnificent to look at. Seeing few camels in the prahara, I wondered if the Hindu tradition of Tamilnadu had been modified to allow camel to accompany the lonely elephant. It was well past 4 o’clock when we completed the visit-ables around the prahara. Then we visited swami and amman sannidhi’s at a special cost, which allowed us to by-pass most of them in the normal queue. Even this special queue was packed so much that a young lady in front of us fainted in the crowd itself. We had been given less than 3 minutes to sit in front of the deity, where a person sung Thirvasagam beautifully invoking my memory of Panayapatti (my native) Shiva temple oduvar during festival times. Finally we visited the golden lotus pond (porthamarai kulam) and started towards the hotel, after having tender coconut from a muscle man. Museum has an entrance fee of Rs.10 per person and the special entrance queue has a fee of Rs.15 per person. Prachi was not happy as we had to leave the temple in 2 hours, while Bhupesh, who had visited the temple earlier that day, told us that it might take 3 hours. She suspected that there might be something, yet to see. But we, rather I was successful in persuading her. Immediately after reaching the hotel we checked out our rooms and continued our journey towards Tirunelveli which was our next halt.

Madurai – Tirunelveli:
We started from Madurai at 6.00 P.M. As soon as we started our driver confused us, rather confused Prachi saying that we could reach Cape in 5 hours and we will be able to see the sunrise which is claimed to be special there. I had seen sunrise here earlier. It was nothing special for me. It is as good as any sunrise in the east coast of India. Apart from sunrise, our driver might have had his own intentions in making us stay in Cape. As Prachi was desirous to see sunrise from the beginning, she got tempted and we called few hotels in Cape through driver’s reference. But finally we decided to stay at Tirunelveli itself, thinking on moral and comfort context. My father-in-law provided his thought during this confusion, which impacted me a lot. He said, if we cancel the current reservation done at Tirunelveli and stay somewhere in Cape, it is like betraying the Tirunelveli hotel. If we do this, this hotel management will loose trust on telephonic booking in future. Consoling Prachi that we will see sunrise at Rameshwaram, we continued with our planned itinerary.

Tirunelveli – night halt:
We finished our dinner at a highway hotel, which the driver claimed to be one of the good ones on the route, but which turned out to be the only one on the highway. There were a few ‘my’ kind of roadside hotels all through the route, which serve the speciality of this region, the parota, especially the Virudhunagar one. But I had to miss this opportunity due to my companions who would not like such hotels and its servings. My father would be the best company in such situation. We reached Tirunelveli around 10 PM. The hotel looked good from outside and it was no less inside. Though not luxurious, it was very decent. After having a very good sleep, we woke up at 6.30 AM the next morning. The restaurant attached with the hotel was very good and starts serving from early morning. We completed our regular south Indian breakfast of Idli, Dosai and Pongal at 7 o’clock.

Tirunelveli – Kanyakumari:
It was a very scenic route. The highway is under construction. If this work is done, it would be a great experience to travel this route. I never knew this region is so fertile. This region is depicted as one of the dry regions of Tamilnadu. Even the last time I was here before 10 years, it was so hot and dry. Probably, it is due to the winter and the cyclone that had hit these regions a day before. All through the travel, the Western Ghats was forming a backdrop. More to it was the wind mill fans that occupied the entire region around Kavalkinaru. The route from Tirunelveli to Kanyakumari is through a small town called Valliyur and a small but famous village called Mahendragiri, where ISRO has its Liquid Propulsion Research Center. Near Kavalkinaru, the highway bifurcates to Kanyakumari and Nagercoil. We stopped a few miles after Kavalkinaru to relish the beauty of thousands of huge fans in one sight. We took a 360 degree video too. Then we continued our travel to Kanykumari.

Kanyakumari:
We reached Cape around 9.30 AM. The tourist spots here are localized to the end of India. There is shore from where the ‘sangam’ of three seas can be distinguished, there is a memorial dedicated to Gandhi and 2 rock spots a little away from shore, which can be reached by a boat operated by a Tamilnadu government entity, “Poompuhar”. There was a big queue, mostly populated with Gujaratis and Iyappa devotees, which we had to pass through before boarding the boat that took us to Vivekananda rock. We spent enough time there, enjoying the nature, the colors of the sea, waves dashing the rocks and the beautiful breeze. Complementing the beauty was the drizzle, which just started. The meditation center, though not silent is a good place to feel the inner silence. We could spot a sparrow and capture it in our camera which is extinct in Bangalore. We had to get through a little longer queue, which had just grown in length due to the drizzles. Prachi and I went to have a look at Thiruvalluvar statue on the other rock, while my in-laws left to the main-land. I avoided climbing up the stairs to the statue, as I had to remove my shoes. When Prachi was persuading me to remove the shoes, Jayakumar called. He is more accustomed to these places, as his native place is near Nagercoil. I consulted whether we can visit any other place, as we had time. My idea was to visit Mathur Totti palam, which is supposed to be the Asia’s longest and tallest bridge. But he suggested traveling to Padmanabapuram rather than visiting Mathur.

Returning from rock spots, we went along the street bordered by shops, most of them selling sea shells or art paintings and reached the Kanyakumari temple. I had visited this temple earlier, which had nothing special of architectural value. I convinced Prachi and her mom to return from the entrance itself without entering the crowded garba-griha. On the way back, we entered a hotel, assuming that north India meals might be available. Except dosa and south Indian meal, nothing was available. One surprising sight on this entire street was small hotels at every 10m distance. Every hotel with no exception claim to serve all state food – Marathi, Gujarathi, UP, MP, Andra, Punjabi to name few. After having so called lunch, Prachi did some shopping, which she was insisting for. After the shopping Prachi along with her parents went to visit Gandhi Mantapam, while I called up the cab. On the way to Padmanabapuram, we visited the Vivekananda Nagar also.

Padmanabapuram:
My father-in-law was not very convinced to visit an extra place after Kanyakumari. He had set his mind to leave to Tuticorin. He had so many questions regarding the distance that we had to travel further. Though not explicit, it expressed his displeasure due to this extra spot on the agenda, which irritated me to the maximum. It was actually not an extra spot, rather a substitute for Susindram. Susindram is a beautiful, architecturally rich temple between Kanykumari and Nagercoil. We had to skip this temple as there was a function called Margazhli Darisanam, which had attracted a huge crowd. He is not made for travel. This is my conclusion, every time we travel together.

After a long traffic jam due to Susindram temple festival, we reached Padmanabapuram palace around 3 PM, through Thakalai. The region after Nagercoil was entirely fertile and had a Malayali aroma. People in this region are more comfortable with Malayalam than Tamil. The architecture is Kerala style, though these places are in Tamilnadu. Padmanabapuram palace is a kerala style palace, maintained by Kerala government. Prachi and I went around visiting the entire palace, while my in-laws rested in the cab. Prachi was very happy to visit this place. Even for me, this was the first visit to a Kerala style palace.

To Tuticorin:
We started from Padmanabapuram around 4.30 PM towards Tuticorin, where we had booked a hotel for night stay. We had so much of confusion regarding the route. Tuticorin can be reached through Thiruchendur or Tirunelveli. After a lot of discussion between me and the driver, we decided to take the Tirunelveli route, which was better though a little farther. During all this time my father in law was testing my patience with repeated questions on distances. From Tirunelveli, we mistakenly took the route to Thiruchendur. After traveling some 10 km, I doubted the route, as all the boards were showing distance to Thiruchendur, while none showed Tuticorin. I asked the driver to break for tea in a small village, where we found we were on a wrong route, after some consultation. The villagers suggested an interior metal road through some remote villages, which will take us very close to Tuticorin. We took the route, without knowing it was so badly damaged due to the cyclone. But to our surprise, we reached Tuticorin, just 45 minutes from there. I just could not believe that we were at Hotel Sugam, Tuticorin at 8:30 PM. We had a beautiful, big room and not to mention, a very good sleep after a day long travel.

Tuticorin to Rameshwaram:
I inquired the hotel reception about the shortest route to Rameshwaram from Tuticorin. They suggested that the shortest route is through a place called Vilathikulam, which is totally devastated due the current cyclone. So, we took the long route again through Aruppukottai, which is just 55 Km from Madurai. On the way we visited a small temple which had huge statues of Vishnu, Adishesh and Mariamman with bright attractive colours at Singalakarai. Before Aruppukottai, we took a state highway to our right which took us to National Highway 49, through Tiruchuli and Parthibanoor. The entire region was so dry with thorny deciduous forest with few huts and tiled houses here and there. Water was logged at some depressed places, due to cyclone. This is one of the driest and poorest districts of India. People in this region looked so poor from the outlook, but hard working. They was mostly harvesting millets which is a staple source of food this region who can’t afford rice all through the year. They were threshing (removing grains from the plant) pearl millet on the roads.

The next big town after Prathibanoor was Paramakudi. It was around 12:30 noon when we reached Paramakudi. Unfortunately, the tyre got punctured just as we entered Paramakudi. While our drive got it fixed, we had our lunch in the best hotel there, though not very decent. My in-laws had a very bad time, as nothing except typical south Indian meals was available, while Prachi and I relished.

Rameshwaram:
After fixing the tyre and finishing our lunch, we proceeded towards Rameshwaram through Ramanathapuram. White sand on both sides with palm trees all around indicated that we were approaching the shores. On a railway crossing we purchased “Panankezhangu” which is tender stem of Palm tree, grown especially for eating. Prachi and her parents were seeing this for the first time, while I took the pleasure of explaining how it is grown and eaten. Ramanathapuram district is one of the highest growers of Palm tree, where every part of this tree is used in some way of the other. The roofs of huts were made of palm leaves; the fence was made of palm stalk or petiole, palm fruit is eaten when it is ripe and before, the tender extract is used to make alcohol and sugar and more so. With all these narration, we reached the mandampam camp, which is the end point of Indian main land. From here Rameshwaram is connected by Pamban Bridge and a cantilever railbridge, which are both marvelous. We stopped over the bridge to have a look. It is so mammoth standing to tall over the sea. On one side it looks like a vacation place in Europe with so many fishing boats anchored near the shore. The shores are totally covered with Coconut palm.

Ramanathaswamy temple:
Our hotel at Rameshwaram was too good in the sense of its location. It was just adjacent to sea. We can directly dive into the water if we jump from first floor. After refreshing with tea and panankezhangu, we went to the temple. The temple was not very tidy as people walk wet, after taking bath in the 22 kunds or wells, which is considered divine. We didn’t take bath in these wells. We directly proceeded towards the deity for darshan. After darshan, we had a look at the 1000 pillar corridor, which is the longest temple corridor in world. It was magnificent, though not lit properly. After darshan, we visited Sri Ramakrishna Mutt and spent some time on the so called beach. Later in the evening, Prachi, her mom and I went shopping, leaving her father at Gujarathi samaj, where we planned to have our dinner. My mother in law bought some gifts for her friends and relatives, while Prachi bought some ornaments made of sea shells. On the way back, my father called with a trembling voice and gave the message of my grandfather’s demise. Not waiting for dinner at Gujarathi samaj, we finished our dinner at a hotel. I had to discontinue my trip and proceed for the funeral of my grandfather at a place which was 6 hour journey from Rameshwaram.

Rest of the Trip:
The next morning, though not very enthusiastic, Prachi accompanied her parents managing with her Tamil. They had a visit to the shore to see how the sunrises, which they missed at Kanykumari. Then they visited Dhanushkodi, which I m yet to see. The last time I went we did not go till Dhanushkodi. Dhanushkodi is around 20 km from Rameshwaram. Till some distance the normal vehicles are allowed. Later on sands, only the four wheel drive jeeps are allowed. These jeeps take the tourist to the end of India, Dhanushkodi. Srilanka is just around 15 km from here. This place is totally devastated and buried in sand, except a few building which remains. There are some fishermen families that live there. Prachi had purchased some sea shells from the kids who were selling them at cheap cost compared to the cost quoted at the shops around the temple at Rameshwaram.

After Dhanushkodi, they returned back to Madurai and took the same flight in which Bhupesh’s (my colleague) family flew to Bangalore.

Places to stay:
Madurai:

Madurai Residency, 14-15 West Marret Street, Madurai – 625 001

Ph: +91 452 2343140, 2343141, 2343142, 2343143, 2343144

http://www.madurairesidency.com/

There are some good hotels along the same street.
Tirunelveli:

Sri Janakiram Hotels, 30, Madurai Road, Near Nellai Junction, Tirunelveli – 627 001

Ph: +91 462 2331941, 2331942, 2331943

Rameshwaram:

Hotel Sri Saravana, 19A, South Car Street, Rameshwaram – 623 526

Ph: +91 4573 223367

(This hotel does not have a restaurant attached)

Tuticorin:

Hotel Sugam, 207, V.E. Road, Tuticorin – 628 003

ph: +91 461 2328172, 2328272, 2328372, 2328472, 2328572

Distances:

Madurai - Tirunelveli : ~160 KM

Tirunelveli – Kanyakumari : ~80KM

Kanykumari – Nagercoil : 18 KM

Tirunelveli – Tuticorin : ~50 KM

Tuticorin – Arupukkottai : 80

Aruppukkottai – Rameshwaram : ~120